Monday, December 9, 2013

Making a Clutch Install a One Man Job

Use a cutoff bolt with a slot cut in it.

Making a clutch installation a one man job might be as easy as some bolts with the heads cutoff. This trick will work for installing the flywheel as well as the pressure plate which is also called the cover assembly.

Check this YouTube video out HERE to see what we mean.

Where this really helps is on flywheels and clutch covers that weigh a lot. If you put these two studs at roughly 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock then you can slide the flywheel or clutch cover on these studs and then start the other bolts without fear of dropping.

You fingers and feet will thank you. If you're not wearing steel toed boots (and that still may not keep you from injury) and you drop a flywheel or pressure plate on your feet....well we don't have to describe how that might turn out.

Of course, in order to truly make this a one man job you may still need a transmission jack and a car lift.




 

Monday, December 2, 2013

1998 Mazda B2500 Pickup Clutch Set, Flywheel and Clutch Hydraulic System Installation


This video shows the replacement of the clutch, flywheel, master cylinder and slave cylinder on a 1998 Mazda B2500 pickup.

Upon initial inspection, the clutch master cylinder reservoir was empty which led to the inspection of the slave cylinder which was visibly oily and obviously leaking and in need of replacement. While inspecting the slave it was also noticed that the self adjusting mechanism was at the end of its adjustment which indicated that the disc was worn down and in need of replacement.

While the clutch in this vehicle is pretty standard (other than the factory self adjustment mechanism on the cover), the hydraulic system on this series of vehicle proves to be quite challenging for most mechanics and do-it-yourself folks alike. The things covered in this video are common to many years of the Mazda B-Series and Ford Ranger pickups.

Ways to Increase Clutch Torque Capacity

There are a few simple ways to increase torque capacity in a clutch system.

1) Add friction surfaces. Instead of just one disc, two or three disc clutches are sometimes used.

2) Increase the coefficient of friction of the friction material. The following materials are often used: organic (.25), carbon/kevlar (.28), kevlar (.36), ceramic (.38)  and steel/feramic (.40). As the coefficient is increased clutch grab or chatter might occur.

3) The spring/diaphragm pressure is increased in the cover assembly (a.k.a. pressure plate). The clutch pedal effort will usually increase.

4) A larger mean radius (r) is used. This is also called the radius of gyration. This means generally a larger diameter disc, cover assembly (pressure plate), and flywheel but can sometimes mean that the inside radius of the lining is increased which would give a larger mean radius without changing the overall diameter.

          r = mean effective radius of lining in feet [(inside radius + outside radius) ÷ 2]

Sometimes a combination of all four are used. For example, an Eaton (aka Spicer) clutch for a large 18 wheeler truck can have two discs that have ceramic button discs that are 15-1/2" in diameter with a 2,000 lb cover assembly clamp load.

Related Pages:

Calculating Clutch Torque Capacity 

Clutch Torque Calculator




Sunday, November 3, 2013

1991-1999 Saturn 1.9L Clutch Hydraulic System Installation






2001 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L Clutch and Hydraulic System Installation

 
 
 
This video covers a clutch and hydraulic system installation for a 2001 Jeep Wrangler with 2.5L engine.

The following things were replaced: cover assembly, clutch disc, flywheel, release fork & master and slave cylinders.

Monday, June 24, 2013

How a Clutch Works




This is a good video that shows how a clutch system works. It shows the overall view and then how each component works.

Thursday, June 13, 2013

Manufacturer Spotlight: Ace Manufacturing and Parts Company - American Made Clutches



Today's spotlight is on Ace Manufacturing and Parts Company. Their clutch products are made in the USA. Check out the video above and see for yourself.

For more information visit their website at: www.ace-mfg.com

Heavy Duty Catalog:



Monday, June 3, 2013

Flywheel Installation Recommendations

  1. Keep hands clean and free of any oil and grease.
  2. Check engine and transmission seals for leaks. Replace damaged seals if necessary.
  3. Ensure that crankshaft flange is square, flat and clean.
  4. Ensure that threads in the crankshaft flange are clean. If neccesary, chase threads with a tap.
  5. Clean rust preventative coating from friction surface and mounting surface of flywheel and pressure plate.
  6. If available, use new mounting bolts for both flywheel-to-crankshaft and cover assembly-to-flywheel.
  7. It is recommended to use a thread locking compound such as Loctite® Threadlocker #262 or equivalent on all bolts.
  8. Tighten all flywheel-to-crankshaft and cover assembly-to-flywheel mounting bolts in a star pattern using manufacturers recommended torque specifications.
  9. Failure to follow manufacturer’s recommended torque specifications may damage flywheel, cover assembly and/or bolts.
  10. NEVER use a impact wrench to mount the flywheel or cover assembly! Use a torque wrench and follow manufacturer’s specifications.
  11. Other items to check include: Check crankshaft endplay, check transmission input shaft run-out and endplay, check drive shaft, U-joints, CV (constant velocity) joints and boots for worn or damaged parts.

Thursday, May 30, 2013

Troubleshooting - Clutch Slipping

Trouble: CLUTCH SLIPPING

Probable Cause:
  1. Worn clutch facings
  2. No free travel at pedal
  3. Grease or oil on facings
  4. Linkage adjusted improperly
  5. Weak or broken pressure springs
  6. Distorted pressure plate
  7. Throwout bearing (aka release bearing) riding release levers
  8. Pressure plate binding on studs
  9. Clutch parts binding
  10. Release mechanism binding
  11. Overloaded clutch 

Clutch Installation Instructions - 15-1/2” Cast / Angle-Spring / Two Plate / Pull Type Clutch




Clutch Installation Instructions

1. Check the condition of the flywheel. If it is cracked or warped, refer to the manufacturers recommendations concerning resurfacing or replacement.
2. Check pilot bearing condition and fit in flywheel. It is always recommended to replace the pilot bearing.
3. Check the transmission main drive gear spline (input shaft) for excessive wear. Worn splines will prevent clutch discs from sliding freely. Make sure the disc slides back and forth on the splines without any binding.
4. Install two guide studs (7/16-14 thread and 5" long) at the eleven (11) and one (1) o'clock positions.
5. Insert the alignment tool through the release bearing sleeve in the new clutch. Install the alignment tool through the rear disc, making sure that the side marked pressure plate side faces the transmission. Note: The long part of the hub should be toward the transmission.
6. Insert the intermediate plate in the clutch cover and align the driving lugs with the slots provided. Where available, the positive separator pins in the intermediate plate must be flush with the cast lug on the pressure plate side.
7. Install the front disc by sliding over the alignment tool, making sure the side marked flywheel side faces the engine (flywheel).
8. The unit is now ready to be installed on to the flywheel. Position the clutch over the guide studs and slide it forward until contact is made with the flywheel surface. Start six bolts with lock-washers and tighten finger tight. Lightly tap the aligning tool to make sure that it is centered and seated into the pilot bearing. IMPORTANT: Make sure the adjusting mechanism is at the bottom, where you can get to it after the transmission is installed.
9. Tighten the bolts at 35-40 ft. lbs., in an even, modified star pattern. Make sure that the cover assembly seats properly on the flywheel. Replace the two guide studs with bolts and tighten to 35-40 ft. lbs.
10. Remove all the blocks under the release bearing cage.
11. Remove the alignment tool.
12. Position the clutch brake, if needed, on the main drive gear.
13. Install the transmission using extreme care not to hang the weight of the transmission on the clutch. The disc will bend causing non-release. Locate the release yoke in the proper relation to the release bearing housing as the transmission is moved into place.
14. The release bearing housing has been pre-packed with some grease, however it must still be lubricated when the clutch is installed or premature failure may occur. Do not over grease, as the excess will find its way to the clutch friction material.
15. If for some reason the clutch is to be removed, be sure to insert the wooden blocks between the release bearing cage and the top of the cover.

Adjustment Instructions

1. Remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the clutch housing.
2. Check the adjustment of the clutch. If a clutch brake is installed, clearance between the top of the bearing cage and the brake plates when the brake plates are positioned against the transmission should be a minimum of ½”. Without a clutch brake the minimum dimension should be ¾”.
3. Turn flywheel until the adjustment lock is at inspection hole. Remove cap screw and lock.
4. Release clutch by depressing the pedal. The adjusting ring will turn only while the pedal is depressed and the clutch is in the released position.
5. Turn the adjusting ring clockwise to move the bearing cage towards the transmission. Turn the adjusting ring counter clockwise to move the bearing cage towards the flywheel.
6. After approximately 2" clearance is achieved, replace the adjustment lock. This observation must be made while the clutch is in the engaged (pedal up) position.
7. On original installation, adjust the pedal linkage to insure approximately 1/8" between the yoke and the wear pads. All future adjustments should be made on the clutch adjusting ring and not on the pedal linkage. If the amount of pedal free-play is excessive, adjust with the pedal adjusting screw. Do not alter the 1/8” dimension.

Maintenance Tips

1. Lubricate the clutch release bearing at each chassis lubrication period, using high temperature grease. Do not over grease, as the excess will find its way to the clutch friction material.
2. Adjust the clutch before the pedal clearance has disappeared. Failure to do this will result in slippage, and an adjustment may not help.
3. If the clutch is hydraulically assisted, make sure the slave and master cylinder are functioning properly. For hydraulic linkage adjustment, refer to the specific vehicle manufacturers’ procedures.

Monday, May 13, 2013

Ford Ranger Clutch Hydraulic Bleeding Problems

Applications:
1983-94 Ford Ranger - 2.8L and 3.0L
1991-94 Ford Explorer - 4.0L
1991-94 Ford Bronco II - 2.9L
1993-97 Ford Explorer - F150-350 - Ranger
1986-95 Ford Aerostar



Notice how the master cylinder bolts at an angle on the firewall. Look at the graphic above and notice where the trapped air probably is in your Ranger or Explorer. This is probably the #1 clutch release problem for the Ranger and Explorer. This information will help you get back on the road. For additional information, refer to Ford bulletin #93-12-19. Some folks have had luck jacking the front end of the truck up so that the master cylinder is more level. This will allow more trapped air to escape. Bench bleeding the hydraulics before installing on the truck may be the best option.

Monday, January 14, 2013

2000 Honda Civic Si 1.6L Clutch Installation


Gary Croyle of Perfection Clutch covers a 2000 Honda Civic Si 1.6L clutch installation in this video. The part number of the clutch set used was a MU70137-1 (Brute# 92329). 




The clutch dimensions in the 2000 Honda Civic Si with 1.6L engine are as follows:

8-5/8" Diameter x 24 Teeth x 1-1/32" Hub

----------------

This clutch set fits the following vehicles and year ranges:
ACURA INTEGRA GSR L4 1.8L GAS N 1997-01 
HONDA CIVIC DEL SOL VTEC L4 1.6L GAS N 1994-95
CIVIC SI L4 1.6L GAS N 1999-00
CR-V EX L4 2.0L GAS N 1998-01
CR-V LX L4 2.0L GAS N 1997-01
CR-V SE L4 2.0L GAS N 2000-01